The Kumbh Mela, deemed “the largest
gathering of humanity on the planet” is a ceremony that happens every 3 years,
in four locations across Northern India. The gathering is one where people from all
walks of the Hindu faith come to get cleansed of negative
karmas and take a bath in what could only be called “Holy Water”. Why is the water considered sacred?
Taken from Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumbha_Mela
"The account goes that demigods had lost their strength by
the curse of Durväsä Muni, and to regain it, they approached Lord Brahma and
Lord Shiva. They directed all the demigods to the Supreme Personality of
Godhead, Lord Vishnu and after praying to Lord Vishnu, he instructed them to
churn the ocean of milk Ksheera Sagara (primordial ocean of milk) to receive amrita (the nectar of
immortality). This required them to make a temporary agreement with their arch
enemies, the demons or Asuras,
to work together with a promise of sharing the wealth equally thereafter. However, when the Kumbha (urn)
containing the amrita appeared, a fight ensued. For twelve days and twelve
nights (equivalent to twelve human years) the gods and demons fought in the sky
for the pot of amrita. It is believed that during the battle, Lord Vishnu
(incarnated as Mohini-Mürti) flew away with the Kumbha of elixir spilling
drops of amrita at four places: Allahabad (Prayag), Haridwar, Ujjain and Nashik"
So bathing in one of these locations, every
3 years is thought to be a cleanse that advances ones spirituality in the Hindu
faith. The MAHA Kumbh Mela happens every 12 years, and is the biggest, and said
to be the most important due to the merging of
3 sacred rivers: the Yamuna, Saraswati and Ganges River at an auspicious
time in the cosmic astrology.
I was pretty thrilled when I learned that
my trip was aligning with the Maha Kumbh, in fact it was a cause of great
debate between my aunties/uncles/friends when I was in Calcutta. I learned that
most of the older generation of Indians had either gone or always wished they
had, and lots of the younger generation were a little less interested in the
experience and sheer size of the crowds. Nevertheless I sided with tradition
and curiosity, and opted it was a ripe time for me to go. Moreover, there was a
buzz in India about this like Woodstock met BurningMan, with the difference
being that this was a 55 day event, 30 million people at it’s peak, and no Rock
n Roll.
My best friend Casey and I had travelled
to India together with the intention of doing something extraordinary – so what
better an opportunity. In Varanasi, busses and trains were packed with pilgrims
attending, some hanging out of the doors of crammed trains to attend the
occasion. We got on the bus and after 3 hours of pastuers, lush rice fields and
small villages, suddenly we saw the massive tent city from the bridge in
Allahabad….tents as far as the eye could see…. with rivers passing through. The
grounds reserved for the event stretched 6000 acres, and needless to say,
without tent reservations (yep, we were winging this!) we were a little nervous
after sundown came. Overhearing that the Hare Krishnas were offering space in
their tent village, we warmed up to the idea.
Taken from the journal of my travel companion Casey:
it was not the same hare krishna's as back
home, or those depicted on film. they were just kinda normal people over here,
as crazy as the next tent. their security was really tight with army men at the
entrance and when i went out to brush my teeth i almost didn't make it back in.
i was escorted (by the army) to the registration tent and when they asked me
where my pass was i couldn't answer them. so they asked me whose authority i
was there under and i said, "um, krishna's?". they didn't find that
funny but i some how managed to sweet talk them into letting me stay the night
and the fact i had a still wet toothbrush in my hand helped.
We shared a huge tent with 100 other men
and women curled into their blankets. Sleeping bags and actual tents are rare
in India, as camping is not a national pastime like it is in Canada. I shivered
and put on three shirts to compensate for only having a thin blanket. Winter in
the mid-north part of India is cold at night…about 4 degrees, but breezy 20’s
during the day. I couldn’t wait to sleep…and wake up.
The next day was the dip, the big one,
the “Sangam”. Thousands upon thousands, walked steadily from all parts of the
tent city towards the water…with blankets and shawls draped. My friend and I followed suite, with our bags,
cameras, coin donations and a pocket full of cardamom pods. We passed meditation groups, chanting camps,
and various Hindu religious tents on our way to the water. The light at 6am was
dim, and sunrise was a half hour away. As we approached the banks where the 3
rivers met, it was as though the populace of Toronto had all amassed on one
bank at one time – sunrise – to congregate and celebrate. Saris and heads
scarfs dotted the eye, with colors becoming all the more luminous as the sun
rose. People undraped and headed towards the water, some with hands in prayer
position, some with floating candles and others with cups to capture and pour
out the sacred waters …symbolic of their cleansing and releasing. And when the
sun had finally rose, I realized it was my turn. Entering the cold water, I
felt an overwhelming sense of
vibration…maybe it was just the cold, but that much human energy in one place
at one time, does something to soul.
Facing the eastern sun I plunged once, twice, three times ! What joy to
share that experience with so many pilgrims and friends in this human struggle
– a chance to do something that billions had done in the past… a chance to
connect with mythology, history and common hope for a better future.
Sadhu’s form an integral part of the
Kumbh retreat. These men live outside society, lots in the Himalyan regions,
practicing meditation and self-realization through ancient practices. Two such
groupings are Vaishnav (followers of Vishnu the preserver) and Shaiva
(followers of Shiva the destroyer). Morever Naga Sadhu’s who are said to by the
preservers of faith, are usually naked and are usually seen with beautiful
dreadlocks, and coatings of ash on their body. They are given a special day to
bathe (ie no one else can bathe at the same time), and are warriors who have
knives and swords, whereby even the police/army can’t intervene with their
ritual – and dare not stand in there way. After their bathe, many gather to
receive blessings from these Holy Men. After the bathing in Allahad, many of
these people make their way to Varanasi to pray at the ancient Shiva temple.
Two nights of seeing some of the
extraordinary acts of devotion and the largest pilgrimage in the world, was
enough for us to feel satiated. Thankfully we left early as early on the 9th,
as the 10th of February was one of the 3 royal bathing days (shahi
snan), and 5 times the number of people we expected. We hopped on a train back
to Varanasi and checked into our hotel, a little slice of paradise overlooking
the Ganges River.
